Alam kouh

August 31, 2021
Alam kouh 4848m, Alamkouh

Alam Kouh is second highest peak in Iran  by 4848 meters. The best time for climbing and hiking there is from  July to  August. It has two main face for climbing, the south face good for trekking and mountaineering and the north face is nice for technical climbing . In north face there are 800 meters wall for big wall climbing  that  by passing moraines and Glaciers to reach that. Need to remember to bring a suitable equipment depending on what you are going to do because it is a serious climbing. Alam kouh is located in Mazandaran province, Marzan Abad city, Kelardasht city, Roodbarak village and then Vandarbon village. There is a nice Hut to rest and prepare and paying permits for ascending in Vandarbon village that belongs to the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation in Iran and every one can use there.

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The first recorded ascent of the peak was made from Hazarchal over the south face of the German brothers Bornmüller during their six-month botanical exploration of the Alborz in 1902. The gigantic rocky block in the heart of Takht-e-Soleiman massif makes a one km long raged east-west running Ridgeline that is entirely above 4700m, the western one quarter of the Ridgeline makes the Alam Kouh section including the 4848m Alam Kouh peak, and the eastern part makes five horns shaped peaks known as Shakhak-1, Shakhak-2, Shakhak-3, Shakhak-4 and Shakhak-5, the north face of this block creates vertical walls of Alam Kooh and Shakhak.

Climbing Mount Alam kouh via all north routes is class five high altitude technical climbs which need to hard struggle with rock, ice and rock falls, but the southern slopes of Alam Kooh and the Shakhaks are steep covered with boulders and/or scree and they form Khersan and Marjikesh glaciers. The southern routes are easy class three climbs in summer. Anyway, climbing Alam Kouh by any route in winter is difficult and technical.

 

south face of Alam kouh have nice trek beside glaciers , beautiful lakes and 4000m peaks Lashgarak , Menar , Khersan , Shakhak , Siahsang  that is very enjoyable for climbing different peaks by good views.

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Iran alpinism